When you first get to Brazil you are welcomed by women dressed in white and colorful dresses, big dresses. They place a colored ribbon around your wrist which they tie with three knots. With each knot you get to make a wish. The story goes that as each knot comes apart your wishes come true. My knots are very tight so I may have to wait a few years for this thing to fall off and I can be rich and famous. Just kidding, I'm not telling you what I wished for.

The ribbons come in all colors of the rainbow and they say "Lembrança Do Senhor Do Bonfim Da Bahia" and it has a cross printed at each end. The woman tried to explain it to me but my Spanish didn't translate enough. I think it says something which would in Spanish be, "embarca de Senior of something of Bahia." Maybe "Disembarking of the Lord in the city of Bahia?" I don't know, but I bet one of you does so why don't you tell me! Mine is orange, which goes well with the blue shirt I wear everyday. Did I tell you I only have 5 shirts? Everything I brought is either blue or black. I need to go shopping as soon as I get to the cheapest country!
 
I think my favorite thing about Brazil besides the Amazon is Candomble. Candomble is an amazingly liberal religion. I think if I had to pick a religion to belong too I may go for Candomble.  Now, I'm not an expert on the religion but I think I understand a few key elements. It has evolved from Brazil's African cultures and to me feels as if it retained much of the tribal traditions of connection to earth, to other humans and for all living things. The gods and goddesses of Candomble are closely related to the earth. The spirits in a Candomble community can live in houses made just for them and also in the trees on the grounds. There are no icons used for worship, only things from nature, like rocks and plants that are kept to remind us of the gods and spirits. During ceremonies you are made drunk solely by the beat of the drums. If the gods have chosen you to be a leader they tell you and you basically quit your life and come live in the Candomble community. If you are chosen by a god or goddess you are to be a leader and care for the god or goddess' affairs, whatever they may be. A female can be chosen for and by a male god and vice versa. In this religion women and men are equal. Sex is viewed as a festive and positive expression, it has no negative connotations. Actually, it has also been the Candomble community which has been the most positive influence in the battle with AIDS in Brazil. They educate the public and provide support for those infected with HIV or AIDS who are usually shunned by others. In my opinion, Candomble is amazing and sophisticated. It has lasted and has served the people of Brazil so well because it adapts to them.

It is not a religion of harsh limitations and judgment. It is a religion for the people. I really wish I had time in Brazil to learn more about Candomble. I feel as if I've barely touched the surface of it. I went to a Candomble community which runs an elementary school for the children of the area. They aim to teach about the African history and heritage of the Brazilian people as part of their curriculum. The children in this school are of all different religions and are not required to be in Candomble. The day we got there one of the Orishas, a woman who served one of the gods, passed away and so they had begun their seven days of mourning. On the seventh day they shall celebrate. I learned that if the head Orisha chosen by the highest god dies, then the mourning is seven years.
 
The only other thing I really got to do in Brazil was alittle shopping for $2 earrings and dinner. Dinner takes at least three hours, maybe four. You wait for your food forever, you eat, and then you wait for the bill. As Americans we're used to fast dinners usually no longer than an hour, especially at restaurants… this is South America. People enjoy their food and they enjoy their company, slowly. I had two Capareñas, the national alcoholic drink. The registrar, who obviously has had quit a bit of experience with them, warned us not to have more than two. Basically they are a glass full of limes and some very strong spirit. I should have had three, they were so good. I ate so much dinner though that I barely felt them. The whole dinner and the two drinks cost me thirteen US dollars, not bad at all. We were sitting outside so we had the pleasure of saying no to the same five merchants at least three times each and marvel at the two transvestite prostitutes who had a more graceful and swaying walk than I could ever train for. While we were waiting for the bill, and waiting and waiting, two guys about my age came up and asked us for our left overs. Before I could bat an eye they had totally devoured everything and were extremely thankful. With all this going on, there was nothing but happiness in the air. Brazil feels good.